How did I paint my P51D for Blood Red Skies?

At the end of second world war there was more important to increase aircraft performance in the air then efficiently hide them on the ground. Camouflage - especially on US planes - dissapeares to uncover raw duraluminium surfaces.

Being interested rather in collecting Polish Air Force aircrafts I kept models of US planes in the bottom on my "to do pile". Once upon a time, encouraged by initiative on Facebook group I decided to lower this pile by few quick wins.

One of my choices was squadron of 6 camoless P51D. Having very nice checkboard markings of 78th FS by miscmini i started my work. Till now I usually undercoated my models with white. It helped me to put basecoat with camo easily. The challange was to make properly panel lines. I haven't mastered any postshading technique yet: nor wholesurface washing, nor filling lines with a wash. Thats why this time I decided to try preshading technique.

Whole dark blue models I painted with Panzergrau (dark grey) spray by Vallejo. This paint, good covering with matt finish was a well undercoat for  base colour. Next stage was to put main silver colour on whole models. I decided to use Citadel Runegang steel paint. This very  dense paint helped me to have quick drybrush with silver base and darker panel lines. The lines are a bit too wide for my comfort, so probably using preshading technique on Warlord models I'll use ligher grey undercoat to decrease conrast.

Next I put complementary base colours: Dark blue canopies, black fin, Olive drab engine up-cover, Rusty exhausts and white/black nose.

The toughest and most important issue is placing checkboard decals on the engine cover. Miscmini set consist of three checkboard elements per model: one on upper surface and left +right underneath. The challange is that all pictures on miscmini sheet are on the same film, so before applying we should separate each of them very precisely. To do so, we need really sharp knife (I'm using OLFA AK4 Hobby knife with KB4S blade. In my opinion it is optimal tool for such duty: very sharp and really efficient).

Most tricky place is around the exhausts. We need to crop this element really precisely. Fortunately miscmini set is optimised in terms of dimensions and shape to the Warlord models (be aware to order proper set).

Although on metallic surface decals would be set quite good it is always good to use decal solvents. I'm using Microscale Set (under decals) and Micro Sol to soften them after setting. To set decals properly I use a flat brush to transport element from water to model and cotton swabs to subtract excess of water. After applying I usually press decal on place and then aplying Micro Sol.

 When decals are set it is good time for some corrections, for example canopy shading. At this stage on the dark blue basecoat I apply following lighten (each) layers. It is good to add a drop of glaze medium which helps create more natural passage between tones.

The last step of a project was to coat a model with a satin varnish. I'm satisfied with a result.

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